Heating with Wood
Burning wood has
always been a heat source for some people, but with wider knowledge of
environmental issues surrounding the burning of fossil fuels and a desire
for energy independence, burning wood is gaining popularity. Wood
is a renewable natural resource and is less costly than fossil fuels if
cut it yourself. If properly air-dried and burned in an efficient, modern
wood burning stove, the heat from a cord of native hardwood is nearly
equal to that of burning 130 gallons of No. 2 fuel oil.
There are two types
of wood burning stoves: catalytic combustor and noncatalytic.
Catalytic Combustor Stoves (cats)
- Catalytic Combustor
Stoves burn wood with a slower, longer, and more controlled combustion
temperature of 600 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Cats should have
a main body thickness of a minimum of 1/4-inch plate steel or cast iron.
Its bypass plate should be at least 5/16-inch thick and grip a piece
of thin paper tightly when closed.
- Cats need little
upkeep; any ash that collects on the combustor may be cleaned gently
with a soft brush.
- Some signs of
needed combustor replacement are creosote build-up, excessive chimney
smoke, and a general sluggish stove operation.
Noncatalytic
Combustor Stoves ("noncats")
- Noncats burn wood
within a heavily insulated firebox that ensures a more thorough combustion.
- Noncatalytic stoves
do not require the level of care as catalytic stoves.
- Noncats should
be constructed with a minimum of 1/4-inch cast iron or plate steel.
The baffles, located in the interior roof, should be a minimum of 5/16-inch
plate steel and have v-shaped support beams.
Helpful Tips
- When choosing
a wood stove, it is important to know your specific heating space needs.
It is crucial to place the wood stove with safe clearances. Each model
will have its own precise requirements, as well as instructions regarding
installation. As a wise safety precaution, have your stove installed
professionally.
- Purchasing the
very best stove you can afford is economical over the long haul, higher
efficiency levels will help to pay back your initial investment.
- Be aware of the
fuel limitations of your stove. Most wood stoves are meant to burn wood
only.
- Avoid burning
green (unseasoned) wood which may contain up to 50% of its weight in
moisture and needs to be burned off before the heat can reach your house.
- Build small, hot
fires for maximum burning of volatile gases and for fewer air quality
and safety problems.
- Keep the stove's
air-intake vents clear by removing excess ashes.
- Observe the amount
of smoke coming from your chimney. The less smoke, the cleaner the burning
process.
- Wood stoves and
chimneys should be inspected at least once each year by a stove dealer
or chimney sweep.
Selecting and Purchasing Wood
- Wood is generally
characterized as "soft" or "hard" with the denser
(hard) woods giving off more heat when burned.
- Softer woods can
be used as kindling or for heating on warm days.
- Most wood dealers
do not separate wood by grade or species.
- Knowing the general
characteristics of the various species will allow you to determine the
general value of the load.
- Hard
or high density woods: Live, White, and Red oak, Black
locust, Dogwood, Apple, Honey locust, Black and Yellow birch, Rock elm,
Sugar maple, American beech, White and Oregon ash, Yew, and Black walnut.
- Medium
density woods: Holly, Tamarack, Western larch, Juniper,
Red maple, Cherry, American elm, Black gum, Sycamore, Gray birch, Sassafras,
Magnolia, Red cedar, Bald cypress, Chestnut, and several pines--Pond,
Nut, Loblolly, Shortleaf, Pitch, and Norway.
- Soft
or low density woods: Butternut, Cottonwood, Black willow,
Hemlock, Redwood, Tulip and Balsam poplars, Black, White, and Sitka
spruce, Red, Noble, and Balsam fir, and Ponderosa, Sugar and White pine.
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